We’re stuck in an unflattering restaurant in a suburb of Vitoria-Gasteiz trying to download a GPS app for our iPhone and get it working.  We’ve been here for over three hours.  There is nothing magical about it.  There are no castles in sight.  If people weren’t speaking Spanish and the cars weren’t tiny, I might think I were just outside of Bridgeport Connecticut.  Anyone who thinks that travel in Europe is always wonderful, should rent a car and try driving around it—you will experience a combination of freedom of agenda not found on a tour bus or train, and frustration from having to figure shit out.  I’ll take the freedom any day, but thank god yesterday was a better day.  Argh.